An Old Mining Port Transforms Itself into a Party Town

Gijon, Spain

The Silver Whisper’s call at Gijon, Spain on Saturday, May 10 was perhaps the only stop on this cruise that was not a UNESCO World Heritage Site.  At first glimpse, the location was not promising.  We docked way out at the end of a mostly undeveloped new pier.   The European economic crisis apparently struck before the new facility was finished.  From the ship, we could see a town in the distance but a large sea wall and sand were in our immediate view.  Several tour buses drove up and waited on a strip of pavement near the Silver Whisper as Michael and I disembarked and looked for the promised shuttle to the center of town.

From the Old Town Silver Whisper was in the Far Distance

Gijon, the largest town in the Asturias region of Spain, had until relatively recently been an industrial port town whose main export was coal.  As we drove the several miles through the huge port area, we could see that coal was no longer Gijon’s main product.  We passed rusting conveyors running from the hillside to the piers.  Small piles of coal remained pier side awaiting shipment, presumably to somewhere outside the European Union where coal is an acceptable fuel.  Gijon's commercial port of El Musel has fallen on hard times.

The shuttle bus dropped us off at a busy marina right next to the old town.  It immediately became apparent that Gijon is trying to reinvent itself as a tourist destination.  The old town is much like all the other old towns and old cities we have seen on this trip, only smaller.   

Welcome Tourists

Monument to the First King of Asturias

Christmas Tree of Wine Bottles Overlooks the Marina

Gijon has several beautiful sandy beaches with amenities.  But, it is on the north coast of Spain!  The water is COLD.  From my reading about the local tourist attractions, partying all night seems to be the main draw.  During our mid morning visit, the town was very sleepy and nothing much was open.  Even the tourist office didn’t open until eleven am.

Climbing to the Old Town

Through the Open Door of a Small Chapel

Historic Mansion Now a Hotel

Michael and I took a long walk, following the tourist map and checked out most of the sights.  I think Michael spent more time searching for the elusive free wi-fi spots indicated on the map than looking at the scenery.  The Roman Baths, the oldest relics in town, were closed.  They are underneath a pretty park in front of a large church.  We took the shuttle bus back to the ship for a leisurely lunch before heading back to town to visit the  railway museum.

Modern Church, Ancient Roman Baths are Under the Plaza

Saturday Market Setting Up in Town Hall Square

The Museo del Ferrocarril, the train museum, was an unexpected gem.  The museum occupies the former main railway station and rail yard and has been beautifully curated.  Michael and I spent a pleasant couple of hours wandering among the locomotives and carriages.  The exhibits were a bit mixed: standard railway equipment was alongside narrow gauge mining equipment. The whole did present an interesting picture of Gjon’s mining past.  We both agreed this is one of the better rail museums we have seen.

Rail Platform Now Occupied by Antique Train

Former Rail Yard Filled With Displays

Asturias Rail History is Tied to Coal and Iron Mining

The Asturias region of Spain is a major producer of hard cider.  We had intended to stop at one of the “sidrerias” for an afternoon refreshment but the sidrerias  we looked at were not particularly inviting.  Patrons are served open liter bottles of cider; customers are expected to drink the whole bottle down quickly.   The atmosphere was somewhat rowdy; the tables messy. The partying would only get louder as the evening progressed.  Michael and I decided to go back to the ship and have another glass of port on our balcony. 

Afternoon Crowd at a Local Sideria

Silver Whisper stayed late, until 11 pm.  Michael and I enjoyed a leisurely dinner aboard ship and left the partying ashore to others.